Hardware Guide
©Copyright 2011 by assassin @ assassinHTPCblog. All rights reserved. This guide and its contents are copyrighted by assassin @ assassinHTPCblog.
This may be used for personal use by the purchaser only; users are forbidden to reproduce, republish, redistribute or resell and material from this guide without the permission of assassin @ assassinHTPCblog.
Welcome
Welcome to assassinhtpcblog.com. This is the most comprehensive and most detailed tutorial on the internet in regards to how to setup and use your HTPC.
Disclaimer: This guide is for building a simple, basic home theater PC. This is a great guide for someone building their first HTPC or wanting to build a simple and relatively affordable HTPC. My picks are usually not the absolute cheapest so if you are looking for that route your may want to look elsewhere. I feel my picks are relatively affordable and represent the best “bang for your buck” using quality reliable parts.
Also, although I am a consultant for a custom HTPC company I am in no way affiliated or get any compensation for any of the products below.
Please also visit my blog and tutorials at www.assassinhtpcblog.com
=========================================================
I will never charge money for you to view my guide. However it does take time and money for me to keep my recommendations up to date and to try to answer questions.
If you have found this thread helpful or if it has saved you time and/or money a donation is appreciated.
Please click on the paypal button above to donate!
List of Donators:
Thank you to the following whose kind donations have kept this thread going for everyone else:
jjdurrant, latenight, johnjack, hanly2, alexis, flyback, benson, brock, bdbrown, SeldomSeen31, chris19992, Mondo Rock, mbbransc, ball3r, CarpeD1em500, jes.jr, bughunt, Tizi, scopeyus, mullet34, bcarney, sauls, hanly2, Huang, jcbaggins, darkside, drittiner, Ed S., BadgerDiscer, dpnaylor, flocko, gtmtnbiker
=========================================================
FAQ
FAQ – Frequently Asked Questions
System Builds
Ivy Bridge Builds
Sandy Bridge Builds
AMD Trinity Build
AMD Llano Build
Clarkdale i3 Build
Mini ITX Options
Other Parts
Hard Drive
Power Supply Unit (PSU)
Computer Case
Wireless Options
Optical Drive (DVD/Bluray) Options
Input Devices
HDMI Cables
Optional Parts
=========================================================
What to Expect
Building and owning a HTPC is not for everyone as it takes quite a bit of time to get everything completed. If this time and effort is intimidating then I strongly suggest that you find someone to build and/or setup your HTPC. With that being said this is the time I would expect the beginner to build their first HTPC.
1. Build planning and research:
- 5-10 hours without using this guide
- 1-2 hours if using this guide
2. Hardware Build:
- 2 hours
3. Software Installation:
- 2 hours
4. Software configuration
- 10+++ hours without a guide
- 1-2 hours using my guide located here at assassinhtpcblog
I have recently created and compiled the most comprehensive HTPC setup and configuration illustrated tutorial that you can find. It is located over at my blog and I highly recommend that you purchase it if you have decided to build your own HTPC. This guide will be the most important $20 that you spend on your build and will take you step by step through setting up, configuring and using your HTPC.
=========================================================
What this HTPC is meant to do:
1. Play 1080p movies in any format
2. Run mediabrowser, XBMC or equivalent
3. Download movies, music, pictures or other data to be played
4. Surf the internet
5. Play music
6. View pictures
7. Connect to a HDTV or AV receiver via HDMI
8. Rip bluray to hard drive (with additional bluray drive and software)
9. Watch HULU, Netflix, etc.
10. Play 3D Movies (ONLY with the IvyBridge, SandyBridge, and Llano builds – see below. Otherwise you will need an additional 3D capable video card)
11. Use an optional TV tuner card or device to record TV if you like
12. Bitstream HD audio over HDMI
What this PC is not meant to do:
1. Play modern graphics intense games at maximum settings (you may be able to play games at moderate settings with some of the integrated GPUs)
2. Use a solid state hard drive (SSD) which is optional (with current prices this is now *almost* a necessity in my opinion but you can indeed build a HTPC without one. A SSD’s performance increase is noticeable and I highly suggest you consider adding one for your OS and Programs) — see below – under “optional parts”
=========================================================
Parts List:
1. Software:
Windows 7 64 bit $100 (or less)
- Allows you to run Windows Media Center (WMC) and Mediabrowser. Stable with an excellent user interface. Many employers and universities allow you to purchase Win7 at a large discount. Please note that Win 7 Home does not have remote desktop control. Most people don’t need this but if you want it look at some of the other Win 7 products.
Another alternative is this family pack which gives you 3 license keys for $99. Google “Windows 7 double install” to learn how to install a full version legitimately with these upgrade discs.
Excellent front end for your media files. These are actual screenshots from my HTPC after using my paid guides to set it up. The program itself is free.
XBMC
XBMC is another excellent frontend for your HTPC. These are more actual screen shots from one of my test HTPCs after using my paid guides for setup. Free.
Other frontend recommendations: JRiver and Plex. See my paid guides for more details.
Codec packs
Win7 plays just about every format natively in WMC with the exception of MKV. To play MKV files you need ONE of the three options listed below. Note: If you are using XBMC as a frontend you do not need to download any codecs or codec packs.
LAV Media Splitter (Capable of bistreaming HD Audio)
Haali media splitter
Simplest option for enabling MKV in WMC. Free.
Shark007 Codec Packs (32 and 64 bit needed). (Includes ffdshow which is capable of bitstreaming HD Audio)
Codecs for all known file types. Needed to play some movies through WMC. Free.
Shark007 32 bit
Shark007 64 bit
Antivirus, Antimalware, Antispyware Software
Windows Security Essentials - Free with Windows 7
A robust and actually very powerful protection program. This is what I use and I have not had any problems.
2. Hardware
=========================================================
There are currently five options/builds that I recommend for a basic/beginner HTPC:
1. Option 1: Intel Ivy Bridge (LGA 1155) with integrated onboard 3D video, 1080p and HD Audio
2. Option 2: Intel Sandy Bridge i3 (LGA 1155) with integrated onboard 3D video, 1080p and HD Audio
3. Option 3: AMD Trinity Build with integrated onboard 3D video, 1080p and HD Audio
3. Option 4: AMD Llano Build with integrated onboard 3D video, 1080p and HD Audio
4. Option 5: Intel Clarkdale i3 (LGA 1156) with integrated onboard 1080p video and HD Audio
What? Where is the Zacate? The Atom? The answer is I just don’t see the point. You can build an Intel Sandy Bridge G620/G530 which uses almost the same amount of power with a MUCH better CPU. You also could build a Llano that likewise has many improvements. Both of these options cost about the same or maybe a little more money than the Zacate or Atom. For HTPC I personally don’t see the point of Atom or Zacate when there are better options available.
Option 1: (Think V10 Sportscar) – Intel Ivy Bridge Build
Ivy Bridge (IVB) 22nm microarchitecture represents the latest release by Intel. Upgrades over the Sandy Bridge are better graphics from the integrated graphics processor located on the CPU which is at least as good (if not better) than the AMD Llano’s superb integrated graphics for gaming and post-processing programs like MadVR. There are also more PCI-e lanes on most motherboards. Other features include more prevalent use of USB 3.0 headers on the board itself, some motherboards with the well regarded Intel NIC (network interface controller for LAN) onboard, an improved 23.976 refresh rate, and others. CPU performance is about 5-15% improved over Sandy Bridge depending on the benchmark.
Please note that like the Intel Sandy Bridge and Llano you don’t need a separate video or sound card. 3D, 1080p video and HD Audio are now built in to the CPU itself making the need for a discrete video card a thing of the past. [Note that the Ivy Bridge Celerons do not support 3D]
These LGA1155 motherboards are also backwards compatible meaning that you could use a Sandy Bridge CPU with an Ivy Bridge era Motherboard — the main drawback to this approach is you would be limited to the Sandy Bridge’s chipset and wouldn’t get to use all the new features offered by Ivy Bridge.
CPU
This list is a few of the options for HTPC and how I view each option:
Option 1: Ivy Bridge i3-3220 3.3 GHz Dual Core – $130
The “base” i3 Ivy Bridge CPU. HD 2500 graphics which will do 3D, 1080p and HD Audio. 55w TDP.
Option 2: Ivy Bridge i3-3220T 2.8 GHz Dual Core – $135
The same CPU as the 3220 except that it is slightly underclocked and uses a nice low profile CPU cooler. In real world testing the “T” and “non-T” Intel CPUs use about the same amount of energy for HTPC uses. If you need a low profile CPU cooler in a small mini-ITX case then this is an option to consider. HD 2500 graphics which will do 3D, 1080p and HD Audio. 35w TDP.
Option 3: Ivy Bridge i3-3225 3.3 GHz Dual Core – $145
The same CPU as the above option but bumps up to the HD4000 integrated GPU. For 1080p and 720p you won’t notice much difference in picture quality but for light gaming or use of programs like MadVR this may be a CPU to consider (early tests show the HD4000 to be approximately 20% less than the ATI 6570 in synthetic benchmarks when used for gaming). 3D, 1080p and HD Audio. 55w TDP.
Option 4: Ivy Bridge i5-3450 Ivy Bridge 3.1GHz Quad Core - $195
If you have to have a quad core IVB CPU then this is currently your cheapest choice. Complete overkill for HTPC but the cheapest option currently. HD2500 graphics which will do 3D, 1080p and HD Audio. 77w TDP.
Option 5: Ivy Bridge i5-3570k Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz Quad Core – $230
This quad core CPU makes the current list due to its excellent iGPU, the HD4000. Preliminary tests show it to be as capable at gaming and post-processing renderers like MadVR as the AMD Llano (early tests show the HD4000 to be approximately 20% less than the ATI 6570 in synthetic benchmarks when used for gaming). Like the other CPUs it can do 3D, 1080p and HD Audio. 77w TDP.
Option 6: Ivy Bridge Celeron G1610 2.6 GHz – $50
If you don’t need 3D or are on a tight budget this is a great CPU to consider. For 1080p and 720p the stripped down graphics are roughly equivalent to the HD2500 with just a few options disabled. 55w TDP. Can utilize DDR3 1333.
Option 7: Ivy Bridge Celeron G1620 2.7 GHz – $60
Similar to the G1610 with a slight uptick in the CPU clock speed and price tag. Otherwise identical to the G1610 listed above.
Motherboards
The B75, H77 and Z77 chipsets are currently available for IVB. Of the three choices the H77 has just about everything that you need for HTPC. The Z77 adds dual video card support and the ability to overclock — neither of which are critical for HTPC. All boards now have at least 2 USB 3.0 ports and an onboard USB 3.0 header. Some have PCI-e 3.0 as well. The B75 is your basic chipset but for some users may have everything you need (note B75 has different expansion lanes, no hardware raid, no optical out on most, no eSATA, etc).
B75 Choices
ASRock B75 – $65
Good entry level option from ASRock with 2 RAM slots, 8 SATA ports. Micro-ATX.
GIGABYTE GA-B75M-D3H – $75
Solid entry level board from Gigabyte. Has 4 RAM slots, 6 SATA ports. Micro-ATX.
ASUS P8B75-M LE – $90
Good entry level from ASUS with 2 RAM slots, 6 SATA ports. Micro-ATX. The ASUS P8B75-M/CSM model is very similar as well but has 4 RAM slots. Micro-ATX.
ASRock B75M-ITX – $90
Interesting Mini-ITX option with 2 RAM slots, 4 SATA ports, and an optical out. Mini-ITX.
H77 Choices
ASRock H77M - $70-85
This board is an excellent entry level board. It has 2 RAM slots, 6 SATA ports (2 SATAIII) and optical out. Typical ASRock build quality which is excellent for the price. Micro-ATX.
ASRock H77 Pro4-M - $90
Another excellent board from ASRock. Differences from the above board include 4 RAM slots instead of 2, eSATA, 8 SATA ports instead of 6 (4 SATAIII), optical out and an additional PCI-e lane. Micro-ATX.
GIGABYTE GA-H77M-D3H – $95
A solid board from Gigabyte. 4 RAM slots, 6 SATA ports (2 SATAIII), no optical out. Micro-ATX.
Intel BOXDH77EB - $100-$120
Intel makes a very basic but very stable and solid board. This board has 4 RAM slots, eSATA, 3 PCI-e lanes, optical out but only 4 SATA ports (2 SATAIII). This board also has the integrated Intel NIC which many prefer over the usual Realtek NIC on almost all other boards. Micro-ATX.
ASUS P8H77-M/CSM - $110
ASUS is making the best motherboard right now and this one is no exception. Excellent build quality, bios and fan control. 4 RAM slots, 6 SATA ports (2 SATAIII) and optical out. This is a well built board but not quite the same “bang for your buck” as some of my other recommendations. Micro-ATX.
ASRock H77M-ITX - $100
A great mini-ITX board. 2 RAM slots, 4 SATA ports (2 SATAIII), eSATA and optical out. Typical ASRock build quality throughout. Mini-ITX.
ASUS P8H77-I – $100-$110
This ASUS board has 2 RAM slots, 6 SATA ports (2 SATAIII) and optical output. Another solid choice. Mini-ITX.
Z77 Choices
ASRock Z77 Pro4-M - $110
The best entry level Z77 board for the money. 4 RAM slots, 4 PCI-e lanes, 8 SATA ports (4 SATAIII), eSATA and optical output.
ASRock Z77 Extreme4-M - $130-$140
A really well built board featuring premium gold capacitors and upgraded circuitry. 4 RAM slots, 4 PCI-e lanes, 8 SATA ports (4 SATAIII), eSATA, optical out.
RAM
For RAM I recommend G.Skill although there certainly are many other brands that work equally well. Make sure that your RAM will fit in your case and that the heatsink isn’t too tall. I recommend 4GB RAM but you can typically find 8GB for almost the same – or sometimes even less – than 4GB. If this is the case then get 8GB but realize that most HTPCs will never use more than 4GB. For IVB use DDR3 1600.
G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3 1600 - $30
Great, “standard height” RAM.
G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3 1600 - $30
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3 1600 - $30
These 2 choices are also great RAM. As mentioned make sure you can fit the taller heatsinks into your build. If in doubt go with the “standard height” as there will be no noticeable difference in performance.
Samsung Low Profile Low Voltage 4GB DDR3-1600 – $20-$30
Extremely low profile RAM that is barely taller than the RAM slots. Quality is excellent despite the plain appearance.
CPU Cooler
Stock Intel cooler. For HTPC it is actually quite good — and free.
=========================================================
Option 2: (Think V8 Turbocharged Sportscar) – Intel Sandy Bridge i3 Build
CPU
Option 1a: Sandy Bridge LGA1155 (3D) Intel i3-2100 - $120
Like the Ivy Bridge, the older Sandy Bridge does it all. It has plenty of power for all 1080p and 3D movies (it will use less than 10% of it power during playback). Advantages over the even older Clarkdale is the built-in on-board HD AND 3D integrated graphics (yes you read that right — you don’t need a separate video card to watch either 1080p HD OR 3D — the HD2000 integrated graphics is built right in to the cpu and motherboard), slightly increased power, and slightly decreased power consumption. These are phenomenal systems if you need the extra power or want to have the best of the best. There is no need to “upgrade” to an i5 or i7 – this CPU is PLENTY.
Option 1b: Sandy Bridge LGA1155 (3D) Intel i3-2105 - $120-$135
This is the same CPU as the 2100 listed above but comes with the more powerful HD3000 integrated graphics. For typical HTPC use you won’t notice any difference between the HD2000 vs HD3000 but if these are the same price or if the 2105 is less then this is an easy choice. Go with the 2105 with HD3000 graphics.
If you are trying to decide if upgrading to the Sandy Bridge over the Clarkdale is worth the slight increase in budget keep the following in mind:
- Completely new architecture with many new improvements
- Redesigning and reprogramming which do less overlapping of work whenever possible.
- The memory, PCI Express (PCIe), and video controllers are all contained within the same die for the first time (improved performance).
- Four fully pipelined rings, and scale as the number of cores and cache size increase (improved performance).
- Video and media processing systems to operate at higher bandwidths and with lower latency (improved performance).
- New and better graphics with redesigned video and media subsystems that Intel claims greatly increase performance in everyday computing as well as more specialized tasks like video editing and transcoding.
- Boosted turbo boost.
- Decreased heat requiring less cooling (and noise).
So just how powerful is the i3 2100? I think Zon2020 said it best:
I think everyone just looks at the “i3″ and thinks this is the “econo” chip in the line. Putting aside completely the graphics and the clock speed, the Sandy Bridge architecture is such a big step up in CPU performance that it requires an entirely new look at what the actual level of performance is from the various chips. For another example, an i5-2500k is faster than an i7-960, or 975 and much faster than popular chips like the i7-880. It’s also much faster than a 6-core Phenom II X6. The i3-2100 is about the same speed as an Phenom II X4 B55 or B95.The i3-2100 is no econobox CPU. It’s also why a SB i7 is overkill for almost any normal human purpose.
**There have been a few reports of these motherboards needing both 4 pin ATX 12V connectors from the PSU connected to boot up**
Option 2: Pentium Sandy Bridge:
Sandy Bridge Pentium G620 - $64
This is Intel’s budget CPU based on the Sandy Bridge LGA 1155 platform that is a great option if you are not needing 3D playback and otherwise the features are roughly the same for HTPC uses. It still has plenty horsepower and costs almost half of the i3 2100. If you are building a basic HTPC and don’t need 3D playback then this is the CPU for you. The G630 is also recommended and is only a few dollars more.
Sandy Bridge Pentium G620T (The G620T is deactivated but you may be able to find it sparingly. Otherwise use the G620 and a low profile cooler if you need it) -$85
Similar to the G620 except lower wattage. Likely will come with the 2100T’s low profile CPU fan as well.
Sandy Bridge G850 - $70
Similar to the G620 but a little more power if you need it.
Option 3: Celeron Sandy Bridge:
Intel Celeron G540 - $50
Intel Celeron G530 - $49
These are yet another option for HTPC by Intel for the most budget conscience builder or those on a strict budget. They have a 2MB cache as opposed to a 3MB for the Pentium SB and 4MB for the i3. All the Sandy Bridge processors, including these budget offerings, can bitstream HD Audio and can handle 1080p video with ease. Picture quality for the HD3000, HD2000 and HD1000 (the latter of which is found in these chips) is the exact same for 1080p HTPC use.
Motherboards – H61, H67 and Z68 options
Please note that Sandy Bridge (Cougar Point chipset) is now “old” technology. Some of the links may be listed as “discontinued” or “out of stock” as they are being replaced with newer Ivy Bridge technology (Panther Point chipset). They will remain in the guide for now as a reference but I recommend using the newest technology when possible.
There are 3 choices for motherboard selection – the H61, H67 or Z68 chipsets. All make excellent choices for HTPC but they have some distinct differences. For most users I would say to go with the H67. However, if the Z68 is around the same price it is also a good choice as it offers everything that you can get with the H67 plus a few more features as I will describe. However, if you find a great deal on a H67 board they make a perfectly capable HTPC as well.
The z68 is a new chipset that has a few advantages over its brother, the h67. These motherboards appear to be the same price or sometimes even less than the h67.
- Ability to overclock and use integrated graphics
- SSD Caching (Smart Response Technology)
- Ability to utilize DDR3 1600 RAM
Unless you are gaming or transcoding large files I recommend against overclocking your HTPC. This will add additional heat to a CPU that is already plenty strong enough for all HTPC uses.
GIGABYTE GA-Z68MA-D2H-B3 z68 - $125
2 SATAIII, 4 SATAII, 4 RAM slots, USB 3.0, digital optical output. An great board for most users with typical Gigabyte quality throughout.
ASRock Z68 PRO3-M - $125
2 SATAIII, 3 SATAII, 4 RAM slots, USB 3.0, eSATA, digital optical output. Another great option.
ASUS P8Z68-M Pro - $125
3 SATAIII, 4 SATAII, 4 RAM slots, USB 3.0, eSATA, digital optical output. A awesome board with typical high quality ASUS parts.
ASRock Z68M/USB3 - $85-$100
2 SATAIII, 4 SATAII, 2 RAM slots, USB 3.0, digital optical output. This is a more “stripped down” Z68 board but still has plenty of options for everything you need forHTPC. Its a real bargain for $85.
ASRock Z68M-ITX/HT - $120
This is a Mini-ITX option. 2 SATAIII, 2 SATAII, USB 3.0, digital optical out. This is one of the only options (but a good one) if you want a Z68 mini-ITX build.
*Remember that Z68 motherboards can utilize DDR3 1600 RAM*
As stated below in the Clarkdale MB section my favorite brands of motherboards (by far) are ASUS, ASRock, Gigabyte and Intel. These are a few of my favorite choices.
Gigabyte GA-H67MA-UD2H-B3 - $130
This is your typical Gigabyte with outstanding options and build quality. 4 RAM slots, eSATA, PCI express, and digital optical output.
Gigabyte GA-H67MA-USB3-B3 - $110
An interesting board. 2 less USB than the other Gigabyte board (8 vs 10) and no eSATA but 1 more SATAII (4 vs 3 plus the 2 SATAIII on both boards). I think this is an excellent board for most users.
ASUS P8H67-M EVO - $140
This board is absolutely loaded with just about everything you could ever need. 4 RAM slots, digital optical out, PCI express, DVI, Firewire (1394a), eSATA, and loads of others. If you don’t need these connections you can save $15 by going with the Pro version. If $15 isn’t that big of a deal to you then this is the most loaded board out right now.
ASUS P8H67-M Pro - $125
4 slots of RAM, an optical output, PCI express but no Firewire (1394a), or eSATA. A great option for most users.
ASUS P8H67-M LE - $105
You lose the eSATA, optical output and have only 2 slots for RAM instead of 4. But you gain $25 which you can put towards something else if you don’t need any of those options.
ASRock H67M (B3) - $70
A great board by ASRock. USB 3.0, optical audio out. Good build quality. (Please note that G.Skill Ripjaws X-series has been proven incompatible with this board)
Intel BOXDH67BLB3 - $85-$105
This is a great board by Intel. If you can get it for the lower price on this spectrum then it becomes an even better buy. Intel boards are usually a little overpriced imo but this board for $85 is a great bargain. Excellent Intel LAN built-in as well. SATAIII, USB 3.0, eSATA and optical out.
ASRock H67M-ITX - $90 Mini-ITX
This is currently the best board for the money, imo. It has eSATA, USB 3.0, SATAIII and SATAII, and a digital audio output as well as all the standard options. (Please note that G.Skill Ripjaws X-series has been proven incompatible with this board. Also there have been recent reports that the G620 CPU is incompatible with some batches of these motherboards)
Gigabyte GA-H67N-USB3-B3 - $115 Mini-ITX
This is another favorite ITX motherboard option for Sandy Bridge.
ASRock H61M/U3S3 H61 - $70 Micro-ATX
This is a H61 board which is slightly different than the H67 boards above. This board DOES support SATAIII and AHCI which is different than many of the other H61 boards. With this board you are giving up 2 SATA ports (4 instead of 6, although there are an extra 2 SATAIII) and 4 USB ports (10 instead of 14) as well as RAID control. If these differences are not a big deal to you then take a close look at this board – especially if you are on a budget. No eSATA, no SPDIF (optical audio out), 2 RAM slots.
ASRock H61M - $60
If you are on a tight budget or just want as cheap as build as possible this is my favorite inexpensive board with HDMI.
ASRock H61-GE - $63
Similar to the above board but adds digital optical output.
RAM
G.Skill 2x2GB DDR3 RAM
The H67 motherboards use DDR3 1333 memory. These are a few of my favorites (Ripjaws functions basically the same as the “regular” G.Skill but assuming you have clearance for the cool looking RAM heatsink it is an option).
G.SKill Ripjaws X Series - 2x2GB – $30
Specially designed for P67/H67 Sandy Bridge motherboards.
G.Skill Ripjaws 2x2GB DDR3 1333 - $30
G.Skill 2x2GB DDR3 1333 - $30
Alternatively the next generation of Intel CPUs will be named Ivy Bridge and will be able to take DDR3 1600 RAM. If you think you may upgrade at some point then getting DDR3 1600 RAM for an extra $3-$5 instead isn’t a bad option. It will run at 1333 on your SB H67 motherboard for now though. If you have a Z68 motherboard then you will want to get 1600 RAM.
G.Skill 2x2GB DDR3 1600 “Ripjaws X” - $30
G.Skill 2x2GB DDR3 1600 “Ripjaws” - $30
G.Skill 2x2GB DDR3 1600 “Standard” – $30
These are the only 3 components that need special consideration for a Sandy Bridge build. For all other components please take a look at my recommendations below…
=========================================================
Option 3: (Think V8 Sportscar) – AMD Trinity Build
The Trinity APU is AMD’s second generation of integrated graphics into their CPU. In comparison to other integrated options the Trinity has better integrated graphics but a weaker CPU. This is a good option for those of you who want to do some light gaming with the integrated GPU or use post-rendering programs such as Madvr. The main improvement over the first generation AMD Llano is an even better and faster integrated GPU (but only marginally improved CPU performance). Please note that this is a new socket for AMD and is NOT backwards compatible with the AMD Llano. Also note that I do not recommend the 100w TDP Trinity CPUs as they are simply too hot and inefficient and I think there are much better options for HTPC. Some Trinity CPUs can do 3D (A8 and A10). All can do 1080p and bitstreaming of HD Audio without the need for a separate graphics card.
CPU Options
CPU Option 1: A6-5400K 3.6 GHz 65w Dual Core: $75
This is the lowest option that I recommend for this platform. The CPU on the less expensive A4 is simply too anemic and the small increase in price for the A6 is money well spent.
CPU Option 2: A8-5500 3.2 GHz 65w Quad Core: $105
This is AMD’s “quad core” 65w TDP option which is comparable to the lower end Intel i3 GPUs. Improved CPU performance over the A6.
CPU Option 3: A10-5700 3.4 GHz 65w Quad Core: $125
This is another “quad core” 65w TDP option from AMD. Slightly increased CPU strength and price from the A8.
CPU Option 4: A10-5800K 3.8 GHz 100W Quad Core: $130
Perhaps the most powerful CPU that Trinity has to offer. Runs much hotter than the 65W versions so I recommend using a quality CPU cooler, case and underclocking this CPU.
Motherboard Options
For Trinity there are 3 chipset options to choose from. For HTPC the A55 option is the cheapest but also most barren. There are no SATAIII (6GB/sec) ports and no USB 3.0. The A75 is what I recommend for most HTPC users which has six SATAIII ports and adds USB 3.0. The A85x adds crossfire support (for gaming) and an additional 2 SATAIII ports which in my opinion for most HTPC users is not worth the added cost. In my opinion the Trinity platform should really not be used for the gaming enthusiast but instead for the casual gamer making the A85x chipset an imperfect choice for a casual gaming HTPC.
A55 Recommendations
MSI FM2-A55-E33 - $50
This is about the cheapest motherboard you can get for Trinity at this time. If you are using only older mechanical drives (i.e. not using a SSD) and don’t need USB 3.0 then this is a board to consider. Otherwise I think the A75 chipset is a better option for HTPC. Has 4 SATAII and USB 2.0. Again, as mentioned above no SATAIII and no USB 3.0. Micro-ATX.
A75 Recommendations
MSI FM2-A75MA-E35 - $60
A good entry level board from MSI with 2 RAM slots, six SATAIII, USB 3.0. Micro-ATX.
ASRock FM2A75Pro4-M – $75
Another solid board with more features including 4 RAM slots, five SATAIII, USB 3.0, eSATA, optical output, CIR header. Typical ASRock construction and great value for the money. Micro-ATX.
Gigabyte GA-F2A75M-D3H – $90
4 RAM slots, six SATAIII, USB 3.0, Optical output make this well constructed board a contender. Micro-ATX.
A85X Recommendations
ASUS F2A85-M/CSM – $110
A good option if you need additional SATA ports of crossfire capability (although as mentioned above if you are a gamer you are better served with a discrete GPU). 4 RAM slots, USB 3.0, eSATA, optical output. Typical ASUS quality throughout.
RAM Recommendations
The Trinity platform can accept DDR3-1866 RAM without overclocking and the integrated GPU benefits from this speed so whenever possible purchase this speed over DDR3-1600 (although the latter works very well also). I recommend purchasing quality RAM as the cost over generic RAM is usually only a few dollars and money well spent. 4GB is likely all you need but often you can purchase 8GB of RAM for a small increase in cost which is something I usually personally do (although again 4GB is just fine). Here are just a few recommendations:
Kingston HyperX 2x2GB (4GB) DDR3-1866 – $28
Crucial Ballistix 2x2GB (4GB) DDR3-1866 – $24
Option 4: (Think V8 Sportscar) – AMD Llano Build
CPU/GPU
AMD A4-3300 2.5 GHz Dual Core - $65
AMD A6-3500 2.1 GHz Triple Core - $80
AMD 6-3650 2.6GHz Quad Core - $110
AMD 8-3850 2.9GHz Quad Core - $120
The AMD Llano is similar to the Intel i3 product in that it has the CPU and Graphics on the same CPU chip. While the GPU is stronger than the Intel i3′s integrated GPU the CPU is weaker compared to the i3 (especially the dual core option) but is adequate for htpc. As a bonus if you want to play a few games on your HTPC the Llano’s integrated graphics are stronger for games. For budget users the dual core makes a good option.The Llano platform is also 3D capable and the triple or quad core options are a good choice for a platform that can run Madvr inexpensively. Of these options I think the A6-3500 is the best bang for the buck.
Motherboards
ASRock A75M FM1 Micro ATX - $75
A great overall board. I really like what ASRock has been creating lately. This board has just about everything you need for an HTPC. HDMI, 5xSTATIII, HDMI, eSATA, Optical Output, USB 3.0, Graphical BIOS.
Gigabyte GA-A75M-D2H FM1 Micro ATX - $80
Another well built board by Gigabyte. Solid parts and 6xSATAIII, USB 3.0, Optical Output, etc.
Gigabyte GA-A75M-UD2H FM1 Micro ATX - $100
Also a well built board. Very similar to the above gigabyte with a few differences: 5xSATAIII (compared to 6), 4 RAM slots (compared to 2), eSATA, Firewire. More bells and whistles than the above Gigabyte board.
ASRock A75 PRO4-M FM1 AMD A75 - $80
4 RAM slots, 5 SATAIII ports, USB 3.0, eSATA, Optical. A loaded board for the price.
ASUS F1A75-M FM1 AMD A75 - $80-$90
4 RAM slots, SATAIII x6, Optical. Good ASUS build quality as usual.
ASRock A75M-ITX FM1 AMD A75 - $90
A really nice board for a small mini-ITX build. 2 RAM slots, SATAIII x4, eSATA, optical
RAM
The AMD Llano operates most efficiently when using DDR3 1600 RAM. Here are a few options
G.Skill 2x2GB DDR3 1600 “Ripjaws” - $50
G.Skill 2x2GB DDR3 1600 “Standard” – $48
Like the Sandy Bridge above, these are the only 3 components that need special consideration for a Llano build. For all other components please take a look at my recommendations below…
=========================================================
Option 5: (Think V8 Sportscar) – Intel i3 Clarkdale Build
CPU
Clarkdale LGA1156 (non-3D) Intel i3-540 - $123
This CPU has plenty of processing power for watching 1080p movies (it will use less than 10% of its power) and has an integrated graphics chip that is more than enough for 1080p. Yes, you read that right — you don’t need a separate discrete video card. It will even send HD Audio signals to your AV receiver. There is no need to “upgrade” to an i5 or i7 – this CPU is plenty.
The LGA1156 options are already becoming very out of date. Unless you are getting an incredible deal on a gently used HTPC with LGA1156 I would strongly encourage you to look at one of the other options I have in this guide.
Update 2-4-11: The i3 540 is out of stock at many online retailers. If this is the case go with the i3 550 (or i3 530).
CPU Cooler
Stock Intel i3 Cooler – Free with the i3 CPU
I use this in all my i3 builds and it really is an excellent stock CPU cooler. Are there better coolers out there? Sure. Will this one get the job done silently for free? Definitely. Low profile as well.
Motherboards
Please note that Clarkdale era chipsets are now “old” technology. Some of the links may be listed as “discontinued” or “out of stock” as they are being replaced with newer Ivy Bridge technology (Panther Point chipset). They will remain in the guide for now but I recommend using the newest technology when possible.
Gigabyte or ASUS H55/H57 with HDMI
This is a subjective personal choice but I have had really good results with ASUS, ASRock, Intel and Gigabyte motherboards. I like the micro-ATX form factor because you have options for upgrades at a later date. I also like the option of having onboard USB3 for later additions as well (you never know what USB3 device may be available in a year or 2). Finally if you are interested in a smaller form factor HTPC I’ll list my favorite mini-ITX motherboard (for a complete mini-ITX build parts list please see below).
Favorite Gigabyte $110
Favorite ASUS (USB 2.0 only) $110
Favorite mini-ITX $105
While SSDs aren’t mandatory I highly recommend them for the OS and programs for your HTPC. The performance upgrade is substantial especially with loading large libraries or media guides. For storage and playback I recommend one or more 2TB-3TB drive(s). See my list of SSDs under “Optional Parts” at the end of this guide for more information.
Also, 3TB are now the “best bang for the buck”. Here are a few of my favorites.
Here is my current thinking about choosing a hard drive for your HTPC or Server:
Just to expand my thought process a little more…
I don’t think you can make generalized statements anymore about the reliability of a particular brand of hard drives or even a particular model of hard drive within that brand. I have tried all sorts of different drives (Samsung F4, EARS, EARX, EADS, Reds, Blacks, etc) and all seem to have different characteristics and even different number of platters within a particular model. I have had some that were noisier than the others as well — again sometimes within a particular model.
The reason for this is simple: All the hard drive manufacturers change components and firmware frequently. So while one particular “run”, “lot” or “batch” may be particularly unreliable and problematic others will be excellent. (As an aside I also don’t subscribe to the purchasing of drives from different “lots” theory as I think this increases your chance of getting one of these problematic drives). So I think unless you can test hundreds or even thousands of drives and know what is inside each drive (and what firmware they are running) you really cannot make a generalized statement at all. A normal consumer just doesn’t have the sample size to make a statistically significant conclusion. This is complicated by the fact that by time these drives will have failed (1-3 years in most cases for what I think is deemed an “early failure”) they are often not relevant to current options and no longer available for purchase.
So you have to weigh all of these things into consideration when purchasing drives or considering what to use. I have had excellent luck with Green (5400 RPM) drives but haven’t had bad luck with Red or Black (7200 RPM) drives either.
I love Green drives and Red drives (5400 RPM) for storage especially for HTPC and HTPCsoftware based servers as I think they are usually the best bang for the buck. I would gladly purchase a red drive for the extra warranty alone but probably would only spend an extra $10 or so. I also am not opposed to the Seagate 3TB drives as they are excellent for the money even though they are a 7200RPM (they are relatively quiet. I have used many).
That’s my $.02.
WD Green WD20EARS 2TB Drive - $100-$130
WD Green WD20EARX 2TB Drive – $100-$130
Western Digital also makes a great green drive and I have used multiple without any issues. Very quiet as well.
Seagate Barracuda Green 2TB 5900 RPM – $100-$130
Additionally I also like the Seagate 5900RPM drives. Even though they are listed as slightly faster than the WD and Samsung for HTPC purposes they are all about the same in real world use.
WD Red WD20EFRX 2TB 5400 RPM – $130
WD markets this drive for use in a “NAS Environment”. In my testing real world performance is the exact same as the Green drives for HTPC (although they seem to run about 3 degrees celcius hotter) . Everything else about these drives is pure marketing and largely not applicable to the HTPC environment (head parking largely not important in Windows OS, TLER not relevant in Windows and software RAID, etc). However, I do like the 3 year warranty that is offered compared to the 2 year warranty with the Green drives. My take is that if these drives are $10 more then go with the Red over the Green for the extra warranty alone. If $20 more it becomes more questionable. At $21 or more I would pass and choose a Green (or other) drive.
Again, I do NOT recommend a 7200RPM drive for storage or media playback as the 5400-5900RPM drives are cooler and quieter and plenty fast to stream 5+ HD streams simultaneously which is ideal for HTPC.
As a side note we have now used hundreds of Green drives with no complaints on performance and almost no failed drives. They are excellent for storage and playback in the HTPC environment.
RAM
G.Skill 2x2GB DDR3 $45
I am a huge fan of G.Skill. So far it has been 100% compatible with every Gigabyte and ASUS board that I have used. It’s a great and reliable RAM to use. You can get by with only 2GB of RAM but for an extra $15 or so the upgrade to 4GB of RAM is a no brainer. You will notice your movies loading faster in mediabrowser with 4GB opposed to 2GB which makes the $15 upgrade worthwhile.
If the above RAM is out of stock this is also an excellent option:
DDR3 1333 2x2GB (4GB) - $47
G.Skill Ripjaws 2x2GB DDR RAM - $46
I really like G.Skill Ripjaws as well. The heatsink is more aggressive looking and may dissipate heat slightly better although overall performance will be exactly the same as “regular” G.Skill RAM. Make sure you have clearance over your RAM from the case cover or CPU fan. If in doubt go with “regular” G.Skill listed above.
Power Supply Unit (PSU)
SeaSonic, Antec or other $30-$80
I am a huge Seasonic and Antec fan. I increasingly have been migrating to the Antec Greenwatts 380 watt and Antec Neo (made by Seasonic) 400 watt PSU due to the price however my favorite PSU is still Seasonic overall. Both are near whisper quiet and have plenty of power for your i3 HTPC which will draw less than 70 total watts even at high load. If you buy a cheaper HTPC case that comes with a PSU I would definitely think about upgrading to a better PSU which will likely have cleaner power, be more efficient and more reliable. The current trend with the “green” PSUs is for the end user to re-use their own power cord (the cable that connects your PSU to the electical outlet). Therefore many of these do NOT come with power cords included. If you need a power cord I will also post a link to a cheap option.
Antec Greenwatts 380 watt - $30 with rebate Power cord not included.
6 foot power cord (if needed):
Antec Neo Eco 400W - $54 Similar to the above PSU but with a large fan for cooling. Great if you are worried about heat. Power cord not included.
SeaSonic 380 Watts - $54 Power cord IS included.
One of my favorite PSUs was the Corsair VX series that is now discontinued. Those PSUs were actually made by SeaSonic. This PSU is basically the exact same thing as the Corsair 450 watt VX. This is a fantastic PSU in addition to any of the three above.
SILVERSTONE Strider Plus 500W Modular - $80 Power cord included.
This PSU is a great choice for a HTPC if you are wanting a modular option. A modular PSU is one where you can attach and detach the cables as needed. This leads to decreased clutter and improved airflow which possibly results in lower temps and fan speed/noise. Its build quality is excellent and efficient. Finally, there is a “short cable” option which has even shorter cables.
Short cable option for Silverstone modular PSU (completely optional) – $20-$25
Amazon
Newegg
PC Power and Cooling Silencer MKIII 400 watt Modular - $50-$70
This awesome modular PSU is actually made by Seasonic for PP&C/OCZ and is an absolutely fantastic PSU for around $50 after rebate (or even $70 without a rebate!)
Seasonic X-Series Fanless 400 watt Modular - $130-$150
This PSU is completely fanless which means no moving parts including a fan. Its modular as well. These PSUs are truly a work of art and one of the best PSUs I have ever used. This is for the builder that wants the quietest HTPC possible.
Case – Variable
This is a completely personal choice. What will fit in your setup as far as dimensions are concerned? What type of asthetics do you prefer? How much money do you want to spend? These are all questions that only you can answer.
In keeping with the theme of this thread these are a few good reliable cases that I have used in the past that I have had good results.
Micro-ATX HTPC Component Style - NMedia 5000B - $60
A good solid case. The weakest part of this case is the front door as it is a little flimsy. However, most people either leave it up or down the whole time. I think if you want to achieve the “HTPC component look” on a budget then this one is hard to beat for the price.
Micro-ATX HTPC Component Style – Silverstone GD05B - $90-99
One of my newest favorites overall and my absolute favorite if your are limited in the depth dimension of your case choice. A slick looking case. Silverstone is known for quality and this is no exception.
Newegg
Amazon
Micro-ATX HTPC Component Style – Silverstone GD05b-USB3.0 – $95-$110
Alternatively Silverstone has released a new USB 3.0 version of this case as well. If you choose this case make sure your motherboard has USB 3.0 headers or you will not be able to connect the front ports on the case to the motherboard.
Micro-ATX HTPC Component Style – Silverstone GD04B – $80-$100
Similar to the GD05B with the exception that the front of the case is aluminum instead of plastic that looks like aluminum. Its also has a metal piece that attaches to the optical drive for a clean look that completely hides the optical drive. Otherwise is extremely similar to the GD05B.
Micro-ATX HTPC Component Style – Silverstone GD04b-USB3.0 – $100-$115
Alternatively Silverstone has released a new USB 3.0 version of this case as well. If you choose this case make sure your motherboard has USB 3.0 headers or you will not be able to connect the front ports on the case to the motherboard.
Amazon
Micro ATX HTPC Component Style -
hec Black 0.7mm Thickness Steel with 300 watt PSU - $50-$60
This is another very solid case and PSU for around $50. This case has been used in multiple builds in this thread with good results. Holds 2 hard drives and 1 optical drive. (Note that with some motherboards the RAM slots may be directly below the optical drive and the tall “Ripjaws” like RAM may not fit. So purchasing standard height RAM is advised. Performance will be identical)
Micro-ATX or Full ATX Midtower Case - Antec Three Hundred - $45-$60
This is my all time favorite midtower ATX case for the money. It is extremely well built and well thought out. The PSU is actually on the bottom of the case which improves cable management. There is a channel on the backside of the case to hide many of your cable which helps keep it clean. It has 3 5.25″ and 6 3.5″ bays as well as an area on the bottom to mount a 2.5″ SSD. So this case could hypothetically house an SSD, 1 Bluray drive and up to 8 hard drives if you converted the 5.25″ bays to 3.5″ bays. I love the aesthetics of this case as well.
Micro-ATX or Full ATX Midtower Case - Antec Three Hundred Two - $70
This is an update to the Antec Three Hundred above. Usb 3.0, tool-less design, side facing drive cage, external fan control and improved cable routing are just a few of the upgraded features. Otherwise its pretty similar to the above case. Make sure your motherboard has a USB 3.0 header to use the front panel usb ports.
Mini-ITX
Antec ISK 300-150 - $80 (built in 150 watt PSU which is plenty)
This case cannot use a 3.5″ hard drive. Plan accordingly.
Mini-ITX Rosewill RC-CIX-01 - $50 (again, build in 150 watt PSU). Also this case allows you to fit a standard 3.5″ hard drive and also a standard DVD drive which is very nice. Tall enough to fit the stock Intel CPU cooler as well. This is my favorite mini-ITX case.
Silverstone SST-GD08B – $155 This case could easily double as a HTPC and HTPC server if you are looking for a HTPC with a lot of internal storage possibilities. Can fit a full sized ATX or micro-ATX motherboard. Can house up to eight 3.5″ hard drives, two 2.5″ SSDs as well as two 5.25″ external drive bays. Choose a motherboard with USB 3.0 headers to be able to utilize USB 3.0 on the front of the case. Comes with three 120mm fans with ability to fit up to five. This case is very large so make sure you have room if you are putting it in your AV rack.
Silverstone SST-GD07B – $140 This case is somewhat similar to the case above except that it has a front that can lock if you are needing to keep your buttons and drives locked away. Different mounting options in that it accepts five 3.5″ hard drives, two 2.5″ SSD drives and four 5.25″ drives natively. You could easily change 1 or more of the 5.25″ bays into 3.5″ bays giving you eight or nine hard drives total. Has three included 120mm fans as well with the option for up to five. Use a motherboard with a USB 3.0 header to be able to use the case’s USB 3.0 ports. This case is also very large so make sure you have room if you are putting it in your AV rack.
Wireless Options
A must have if you can’t hard wire your HTPC to your network. These are a few of my favorites…
B/G/N network - Rosewill PCI-Express $20
B/G network only - Rosewill PCI $13
B/G/N network with high gain antenna - Rosewill PCI-Express $25
USB Option - TP-Link TL-WN722N High Gain About $20. If you are using the mini-ITX build and want to save your internal slot then this is an excellent option.
Optical Drive Options
This is actually optional. It is very easy to load Win7 onto a large flash drive and install it without an optical drive (see my FAQ for more information). However, if you want an optical drive to play CDs/DVDs and even blurays I will list a few options. Please note that playing Blurays will require additional software which you will have to purchase.
Note: As a general rule I prefer Lite-On as I have had the least amount of trouble with their drives and they just flat out make solid products. As anyone who builds computers knows there are literally hundreds of different drives on the market. Also drives are incredibly similar and often have dozens that are separated seemingly only by small changes in their model numbers. There are also new drives released every month because of this. Also many of the drives are actually rebadged drives from another manufacturer. Because of all of these reasons (and also because I do not have enough money to test these regularly) I may not always keep this section updated.
Lite-On DVD/CD Burner - $18
A fantastic basic optical drive. Very solid.
ASUS DVD/CD Burner - $20
Good drive. Likely a rebadged Lite-On.
Lite-On Bluray and DVD/CD player - $60
A great basic bluray drive. This is similar to what I use in my HTPC.
Samsung Bluray player and DVD/CD Burner - $75
Probably the best combo drive out right now. Fast transfer times. ***Please note that recent versions of firmware on this drive are blocking usage of this drive to make backup copies of bluray discs. If you are wanting to rip your blurays to your hard drive as a backup copy then consider the next drive instead.
Lite-On Bluray and DVD/CD Burner - $78
Another good drive by Lite-On.
Lite-On Bluray Bluray/DVD/CD Burner - $80
Good basic bluray burner by Lite-On.
Pioneer Bluray/DVD/CD Burner - $100
One of the quietest burners on the market. Good speeds as well.
Lite-On Bluray/DVD/CD Burner - $100-$115
My favorite bluray burner. Rips BR at 12x and is one of the shortest drives available at 17cm depth which helps in many builds where the space between the optical drive and PSU is important.
Input Device – $14 or more
You will need to have a regular keyboard and mouse to setup your HTPC. Once you have it setup there are many options to use it but I find these the cheapest and simplest way to use your HTPC. If you choose an IR remote control make sure it comes with an IR receiver. Otherwise you will need to purchase one (I will include a recommendation on this as well).
Rii Touch N7 - $40
Backlit, built in touch pad and mouse, full keyboard with function keys. A fantastic and cheap solution for interfacing your HTPC.
Lenovo RF Keyboard and Mouse $27-$39
This is what I (used to) use. Small and radiofrequency which means that no “line of sight” is required like a typical IR remote or keyboard. Its not perfect as the buttons are small, its not backlit, and there aren’t any “Function” keys. But for less than $30 for a RF remote and keyboard its a contender.
Lenovo N5902 RF Keyboard and Mouse with Backlight - $42 with coupon
This is what I use now. The newest revision of the remote listed above this one. Same great functionality but adds an essential backlight for use in the dark when watching movies. The only drawback to this remote is no function keys which is important to some users but not at all important to others depending on your software needs.
Rosewill Windows Media Center Remote $15-$25
Use this only after you have completed setting up your HTPC with a standard mouse and keyboard.
Media Center remote control with built-in “mouse” - $14
This is another very popular remote option.
Dell/Gyration M2010 CX071Remote – on ebay for $20-$50
This remote has a few more bells and whistles than some of the others listed. Backlight, RF, built-in mouse, HDTV learning option and a pretty cool music control via the LCD screen. A good choice if you are wanting some of these options. Please see my review for further information and link for software download. Make sure you order the remote AND the RF receiver. My review of the Dell/Gyration
Logitech Harmony One - $150-$190
This is one of the best remotes on the planet for HTPC. Completely customizable buttons, activity lists, WMC integration, etc. As a recent convert to this remote I highly recommend it as the interface to your HTPC. You will need a USB IR dongle to use this remote and I recommend getting a “HP USB Windows Receiver” from ebay for around $10. This is what I use and I can guarantee its compatibility (its plug and play).
Flirc Media Center Companion/Adapter - $20-$25
This awesome little device is a IR receiver that can turn ANY IR remote control into a Media Center (WMC/XBMC/Boxee,etc) remote control! You just plug the device into your HTPC, download the software from Flirc and then map HTPC commands to whatever button you want on your remote control.
HP IR Receiver – $10-$20 on eBay
If you chose a remote control that does not come with an IR receiver then you will need to add one to your HTPC. A great reliable option is the “HP IR Receiver” which you can readily purchase via eBay. I can confirm that these work well with WMC, XBMC and others. Search for “HP IR Receiver” at eBay.
HDMI Cable(s) – $2-$10 each
IMO the only place on earth to ever buy any type of cable is monoprice. Their cables are awesome and extremely inexpensive. Please DO NOT buy something like Monster cable — you are wasting your money. Digital signal is an “all or none” event. Your TV or AV receiver either receives the 1s and 0s that are sent digitally, or it doesn’t. Make sure that you order a cable with plenty of length for your cable run. There are numerous people on here that have had no issues with run of 50 feet or more. These are 2 examples of 6 foot HDMI cables that I like at monoprice (the netjacket cable has better looks but functions identically)….
Link for all HDMI cables: http://www.monoprice.com/products/su…02&cp_id=10240
6 foot standard HDMI cable - $3.04
6 foot “net jacket” HDMI cable - $6.75
See the other Mini-ITX motherboards and RAM options that I have in throughout this guide for additional options. Any of these can be used in these cases/psus.
A note on the “t” series Intel CPUs and CPU heatsinks: Some of these builds can take advantage of the much smaller Intel “t” CPU cooler which allows you to use one of the great and very small cases listed in my first 2 choices below. I cannot fully recommend these first 2 cases with the larger stock cooler of the “non-t” series because the CPU cooler literally touches the PSU of both of these cases (note that you CAN use these cases with the stock “non-t” series but the fit will be very tight and cable management will be very important. If you feel you can handle these issues then these cases are an option with those CPUs and CPU heatsinks). Not so with the “t” series and its shorter CPU cooler. The performance is virtually the exact same as their “non-t” counterparts for HTPC. Also carefully choose your RAM and do not use anything with a tall heatsink or heatspreaders like the G.Skill Ripjaws, for example, as its height may interfere with the 3.5″ hard drive. I have listed a few RAM options below that I have tested and that fit in the following 2 cases.
Intel Sandy Bridge 2100t in Apex MI-008 case with shortened CPU cooler (approximately 38mm height)
Compared to Intel Sandy Bridge 2100 or Clarkdale i3 regular CPU cooler (approximately 60mm height)
Case Options: APEX MI-008 or Rosewill RS-MI-01 each with 250 watt PSU – $50
These are basically identical cases so pick whichever one you think looks better. They have room for one full sized optical drive and one 3.5″ hard drive (or two 3.5″ drives with adapters — or —one 3.5″ and one 2.5″ drive with adapters —— no optical drive though with these last 2 options). Again, do not use RAM with a large heatsink if you are installing a 3.5″ hard drive as it will not fit (buy RAM with the “regular” heatsink instead).
APEX MI-008 Black Steel Mini-ITX with 250 watt PSU - $50
Rosewill RS-MI-01 BK Mini ITX Tower with 250 watt PSU - $50
If you go with either of the 2 cases above one thing I definitely recommend is a quality 120mm fan which can be easily installed on the side for additional cooling. You also can install a 2nd 3.5″ drive in this location as well.
RAM
G.Skill 2x2GB (4GB) DDR 1333 - $47
G.Skill 2x2GB (4GB) DDR 1333 - $44
Case:
Antec ISK 300-150 - $80 (built in 150 watt PSU which is plenty). This is another very small case that has been used by many with good results.
Case: Rosewill RC-CIX-01 - $50 (again, build in 150 watt PSU). Also this case allows you to fit a standard 3.5″ hard drive and also a standard DVD drive which is very nice. Tall enough to fit the stock Intel CPU cooler as well. If the above link is discontinued or sold out this is the same case for $10 more.
Hard Drive: I highly recommend a SSD in these cases. Please see my Optional Component section for a list of some of my recommendations.
Tip: Don’t have a place to mount your SSD in your case? Use some velcro with adhesive and attach it somewhere out of the way in your case as SSDs are extremely light and do not generate any heat. I have mounted SSDs in all sorts of areas inside the case without any adverse events.
Other Mini-ITX case options:
Realan E-I5 mini-ITX HTPC – $80-$100 A great compact case with power supply. Great for a small case where an optical drive is not needed. Has room for up to 2 hard/ssd drives.
Realan E-I7 mini-ITX HTPC – $100 – $120 Similar to the case above but includes an additional slim slot loading optical bay. Power supply included. Has room for up to 2 hard/SSD drives.
Low Profile CPU cooler: In some of the smaller mini-ITX cases a low profile CPU cooler is essential. These are a few of my favorites:
GELID Solutions Slim Silence i-Plus – $27 Will fit the LGA775/1155/1156 socket. 28mm tall.
SILVERSTONE NT07-1156 – $32 Will actually fit the LGA 1155 and 1156 socket. Has a very nice “silent switch” which manually slows the speed of the fan down. LGA775 version also available. 36.5mm tall.
Intel Stock “T-Series” cooler – Free. With the “T” series CPUs the included low profile cooler is actually very good.
=========================================================
OPTIONAL PARTS
=========================================================
SSD (solid state drives)
These drives are for the operating system and other programs ONLY. These are not used for storage (you will need a second larger hard drive for storage). Benefits of these drives are:
1. speed – startup will take only 10-15 seconds, programs will open almost instantly
2. less noise – they have no moving parts
3. less heat
I want to emphasize that THESE DRIVES ARE BY NO MEANS NECESSARY!!! You will get excellent performance using the Samsung Green drive I mentioned above. These are for the user who wants to build the best.
In the past I had recommended at least 60-64GB of storage (you can possibly get by with 32GB of storage but Win7 will take up almost the entire drive by itself once all the updates are downloaded and installed). However, SSDs have now decreased in price substantially and you can often find a 120-128GB drive for under $100.
If you are choosing the SSD route its because you want even better performance and don’t mind paying extra for it. Here are my favorite SSDs…
120-128GB SSDs
Samsung 840 Series 120GB SATAIII - $90-$130
Plextor M5S 128GB SATAIII - $110
Crucial M4 128GB SATAIII - $100-$125
Intel 330 Series 120GB SATAIII – $105 – $135
60-64GB SSDs
Samsung 830 Series 64GB SATAIII - $80
Plextor M5S 64GB SATAIII - $50
Crucial M4 64GB SATAIII - $77
Intel 330 Series 60GB SATAIII – $50 – $80
Optional Discrete Video Cards for Non-Gaming (or very light gaming)
EVGA GeForce GT 630 1GB – $50-$60
Good basic card for running 1080p, 720p, etc, HD Audio and many Madvr settings. This is basically a re-badged GT 440. Requires a mini-HDMI to HDMI cable. Does not require additional power from your PSU and can be powered from just the motherboard.
Gigabyte GeForce GT 630 1GB – $50-$60
Another good basic card for running 1080p, 720p, etc, HD Audio and many Madvr settings. Another re-badged GT 440. Uses a standard HDMI cable. No additional power from the PSU needed.
HIS Radeon HD 7750 2GB – $85-$105
A great card for running most Madvr settings. No additional PSU power needed.
Gigabyte Radeon HD 7750 2GB – $100
Another card in the 7750 series. Great for Madvr. No additional PSU power needed. A large card.
MSI Radeon HD 7750 2GB – $90-$100
A 7750 series card. Great for Madvr. No additional PSU power needed. Also large.
HIS H779FT1GD 1GB – $140
A 7790 series card. Excellent choice for running Madvr. Large.
MSI R7790-1GD5/OC – $135
A 7790 series card. Excellent choice for running Madvr. Smaller and shorter than many others.
Sapphire ATI Radeon 5450 Fanless 1GB PCI-e - $25 after rebate
A good basic card if on a tight budget. Fanless for noise reduction. Will bitstream HD Audio and 1080p video. Will not do 3D.
HIS ATI Radeon 6570 Fanless 1GB - $65
Good card for use with HD Audio, 1080p and 3D.
Sparkle NVidia GT440 1GB DDR5 - $80
One of the best cards for the money for running 3D. The 440 cards can also run Madvr and LAV cuvid if you are wanting to use those pieces of software to render your video files. One of the few 440 cards with DDR5. Will do HD Audio, 3D and 1080p.
ASUS ENGT430 1GB DDR3 Fanless - $60
A great NVidia card that is also fanless. Can handle some Madvr settings. Will do HD Audio, 3D and 1080p.
Aftermarket CPU Fans
I am a big fan of CPU coolers with fans. You can go with a completely passive CPU cooler but I like the security of knowing that I have a little air moving around the CPU in what can be an otherwise cramped HTPC case. These are 2 of my favorite and both utilize large quiet fans and copper heatpipes. Again, this is completely optional. The stock cpu fan gets the job done and is relatively quiet. (Still doubt the stock CPU cooler’s quietness? Watch this video for more proof.)
Cooler Master GeminII S - $40
Scythe Big Shuriken - $45
Make sure that your RAM will be able to fit under this cooler.
Cable Card, TV Tuner Cards and Devices
The cards/devices listed below are popular options on AVS. Use these as a starting point to research these cards as possible options. There are many people on AVS that use tuner cards/devices and more information can be found using the search function.
Hauppauge HVR-2250 (PCIe- $110-130)
AVerMedia A188 Duet (PCIe- $70-90)
SiliconDust HDHomerun Dual (LAN- $130)
Hauppauge WinTV DCR2650 Cablecard Tuner (External Dual Tuner – $150)
Ceton InfiniTV 4 Digital Cable Quad-tuner (PCIe – $300)
SiliconDust HDHomeRun PRIME – Three Digital Network Tuners (LAN – $250)
PICO PSU
A pico psu is an ultra small and ultra efficient PSU that can be used in very small HTPC builds where space is at a premium and a large PSU isn’t needed or necessarily even wanted. The basic idea is that the internal adapter connects to your motherboard and has minimal connections for devices like hard drives, optical drives, etc. But if you purchase sata or molex splitters and extensions you can quickly and easily connect multiple devices. These PSUs are not for the novice and not for the person who doesn’t like to tinker to get all the connections just right. I have used the following combinations on multiple builds and can 100% guarantee that they are compatible and work very well together. Make sure to purchase the appropriate splitters and extensions depending on your specific HTPC. To use a PICO PSU you need 2 pieces:
(choose 1 of these 2):
Option 1:
PICO PSU 120 Watt Wide Input – $48
This is one of the most efficient and highest quality Pico PSUs that I have used. I like that it is 120 Watts which gives me a little more room should I decide to add devices or change my HTPC setup. The “wide input” allows you to use laptop adapters which are much more common and thus more affordable.
External Brick PSU (many other choices available online)
HQRP 120 watt “UL” Adapter – $20
Option 2:
PICO PSU 90 Watt Ultra Efficient – $35
This is a relatively new Pico PSU that is ultra low wattage when idle and ultra efficient. A great choice for most basic builds.
External Brick PSU (many other choices available online)
Premium 110w peak AC/DC adapter - $36
©Copyright 2011 by assassin @ assassinHTPCblog. All rights reserved. This guide and its contents are copyrighted by assassin @ assassinHTPCblog.
This may be used for personal use by the purchaser only; users are forbidden to reproduce, republish, redistribute or resell and material from this guide without the permission of assassin @ assassinHTPCblog.
Copyright secured by Digiprove © 2012-2013
