©Copyright 2011 by assassin @ assassinHTPCblog. All rights reserved. This guide and its contents are copyrighted by assassin @ assassinHTPCblog.

This may be used for personal use by the purchaser only; users are forbidden to reproduce, republish, redistribute or resell and material from this guide without the permission of assassin @ assassinHTPCblog.

Introduction to the First Guides

In these guides I will show you the ways that I tend to setup my HTPCs. These settings should get most HTPCs up and running optimally in very little time.

These guides represent my knowledge having built and “tweaked” dozens of HTPCs over the last 5+ years. These guides alone will save you literally dozens of hours trying to get everything setup “correctly”. As these guides represent hundreds of hours of research and experience I hope that its contents will stay privileged to only those who pay for it. Doing this will ensure that I continue to spend time and resources updating these guides which of course will be made available to the paid subscribers who have made it possible.

BIOS and Windows Setup: Preparing Your HTPC After Hardware Construction

There are dozens of very good youtube videos and online tutorials that show you the steps required to build a PC. For the hardware aspects I recommend that you purchase a system from our webstore that has been professionally built and tested. However, should you feel that you want to give HTPC construction a try then visit my free hardware guide for a list of recommended parts.

This tutorial will focus on what isn’t readily available anywhere else — setting up your newly built PC for HTPC use. To do this I have taken photographs of each step along the way of an actual HTPC that I have built for a customer.

This HTPC build consisted of:

  • ASRock Motherboard
  • Intel i3 2100t CPU
  • 64GB SSD for the OS
  • 2TB Hard Drive for storage
  • 4GB RAM
  • Wireless PCI-E card
  • Bluray burner
This guide is for general bios settings, Windows installation and driver setup. This guide is completely independent on what front end (Media Browser, XBMC, JRiver, etc) that you plan to run. With the exception of some bios and driver options the guide is also completely independent on whether you are using an Intel or AMD based HTPC.

Table of Guides (with quicklinks)

Configuring Bios


Note: Within even 1 manufacturer there are multiple versions of different bios settings depending on the motherboard (and there are even multiple revisions of a particular motherboard that all may have slightly different version of bios settings). So it is not feasible to offer multiple bios examples for each manufacturer and motherboard. This would be dozens of different guides just on this one topic. Use this guide as a good general overview of bios settings and use you motherboard’s user manual if you have any question about your specific board.

First, we need to prepare the bios. The bios is similar to the “brainstem” of your HTPC and is the most basic area to tell your HTPC how to interact with its parts. There are currently 2 forms of bios available. The first is “classic” bios which needs a keyboard to be connected to change the settings and is very basic in its appearance. The second is “Graphical Unified Extensible Firmware Interface” (Graphical UEFI) which is a new and much better way to view bios and requires a mouse and/or keyboard. The settings are roughly the same in each — just the way it is displayed on the screen is different. This tutorial will use a Graphical UEFI interface but again the actual settings should be very similar no matter what form of bios or motherboard you are using.

While most motherboards allow you to enter bios with any monitor attached (HDMI, DVI or VGA) I have encountered a few motherboards that require you to only use VGA. So I recommend that you hook up a monitor via VGA for this first part of your installation.

To enter the bios consult your manual but most PCs that I have built require you to hit the “delete” button repeatedly after powering on your HTPC.

After entering the bios this is the main screen that you will see. As you can see here we can see our bios version (P1.10), CPU type and speed, memory, etc. Also notice the menu options at the top of the screen. I will take you step by step through each and show you what I change. If I don’t mention something specifically its because I have left it at default.

Let’s go to “OC Tweaker”. As this is a HTPC there is absolutely no reason to overclock anything. Leave these at default settings.

Now move over to “Advanced” and enter the “North Bridge Configuration” submenu. The “CPU Configuration” submenu is left at default.

Here we need to make a few changes. First, change your “Primary Graphics Adapter” to “Onboard”. This will tell your HTPC to use the excellent i3 integrated graphics chip for HD Audio and Video processing. If you are using multiple monitors driven by the integrated graphics then change the “IGD Multi-Monitor” settings; otherwise leave it set as default.

Under the “ACPI Configuration” submenu these are the settings I use.

Now let’s move on to the “South Bridge Configuration” submenu. Here I make sure that Deep Sx is disabled, onboard LAN is enabled, Onboard and Front panel HD Audio are set to Auto, Onboard HDMI audio is enabled, and ACPI is enabled.

Next let’s continue to the “Storage Configuration” submenu. Here we need to make sure that your hard drive SATA mode is set for AHCI. This is especially important if you are using a SSD in your HTPC.

For Super IO Configuration use these settings.

These are the settings I use in the “USB Configuration” submenu.

Next let’s take a look at the “H/W (Hardware) Monitor” menu. Here you can see the temperature and speed of some of the components of our HTPC. We can control some of these from within bios. Under the CPU fan setting let’s change the mode to “Automatic” and choose a fan speed of Level 5 (I actually came back and changed this to Level 4 later which was just about perfect). If you have a chassis fan (which some builds do not) then change the fan settings there as well. The chassis fan is a fan that is attached to the case but is connected to and controlled by the motherboard.

Now move over to the Boot menu. This tells your HTPC in what order everything should boot up. If you are installing windows from a disc then you want to set your optical device (bluray or dvd drive) to boot up first followed by the hard drive. Here “ATAPI” is the Bluray drive model and “C300” is the SSD model. So we want the HTPC to look for the windows disc first in the bluray drive. If we remove the windows disc (like when it is finished installing) the HTPC will still check the bluray drive first but if there is nothing there it will skip it and move to the second device which should be our SSD Windows installation. Although the full screen logo can look pretty at boot up I usually disable it because it is not needed and slows everything down by a few seconds.

Now let’s select the “Hard Drive BBS Priorities” from within this same menu. This will tell your HTPC if you have multiple hard drive like this HTPC does what order you want them to boot. For this HTPC we want the SSD Operating System (OS) drive to boot first followed by the 2TB storage drive (Samsung as seen below).

Next go to “Security”. I never use a password for bios but if you feel this is necessary then enter one here.

Finally go to “Exit”. You have now setup your bios for use with your HTPC! Select “Save Changes and Exit” and we will get ready for step 2 of preparation.

Installing Windows 7

Now that bios is configured your HTPC is awaiting installation of an operating system. I recommend Windows 7 Home Edition 64 bit.

Alternative options: Want to install Windows from a USB flash drive? Or maybe you are waiting on your Windows disc or license to arrive in the mail? You can legitimately install Windows from a DVD or Flash drive with a file that you can download and use from Microsoft. I show you how in the next guide.

Your HTPC may ask you to press any key to boot from disc. If it does this press any key to tell it that you want to initiate an installation from the Windows disc. The first screen that you see once the Windows installer loads is this one. Select your language and press next.

Accept the license

Pick “Custom” to initiate a new system install.

Here is the screen that shows your hard drive choices. Let me take a minute here to describe a few different ways to install Windows as it relates to the HTPC.

  1. SSD + Hard Drive

Notice in the picture below that the Samsung 2TB drive is not listed. That’s because I have purposefully disconnected it at the motherboard to avoid confusion of which hard drive Windows gets installed on. This is an optional step but if you are building your own HTPC then I suggest that you do the same. If you are buying a HTPC from AssassinHTPC then simply select the hard drive or SSD that you want to install Windows onto. Here Disc 0 is my SSD so I will select it and choose “Next”.

2. Hard Drive Only (no SSD)

For this setup I highly suggest that you make a 40-50GB partition for your Windows installation. Why? Here are the technical details (please note only motherboards with a UEFI bios interface can boot from a drive larger than 2TB. You also need to be running Windows 64bit to be able to do this)…

Creating more than one partition has the following advantages:

– Separation of the operating system (OS) and program files from user files. This allows image backups (or clones) to be made of only the operating system and installed software.
– Having an area for operating system virtual memory swapping/paging.
– Keeping frequently used programs and data near each other.
– Having cache and log files separate from other files. These can change size dynamically and rapidly, potentially making a file system full.
– Use of multi-boot setups, which allow users to have more than one operating system on a single computer. For example, one could install GNU/Linux, Mac OS X, Microsoft Windows or others on different partitions of the same hard disk and have a choice of booting into any compatible operating system at power-up.
– Protecting or isolating files, to make it easier to recover a corrupted file system or operating system installation. If one partition is corrupted, none of the other file systems are affected, and the drive’s data may still be salvageable. Having a separate partition for read-only data also reduces the chances of the file system on this partition becoming corrupted.
– Raising overall computer performance on systems where smaller file systems are more efficient. For instance, large hard drives with only oneNTFS file system typically have a very large sequentially accessed Master File Table (MFT) and it generally takes more time to read this MFT than the smaller MFTs of smaller partitions.
– “Short Stroking”, which aims to minimize performance-eating head repositioning delays by reducing the number of tracks used per hard drive.[1]The basic idea is that you make one partition approx. 20-25% of the total size of the drive. This partition is expected to: occupy the outer tracks of the hard drive, and offer more than double the throughput — less than half the access time. If you limit capacity with short stroking, the minimum throughput stays much closer to the maximum.
For example a 1 TB disk might have an access time of 12 ms at 200IOPS (at a limited queue depth) with an average throughput of 100 MB/s. When it is partitioned to 100 GB (and the rest left unallocated) you might end up with an access time of 6 ms at 300 IOPS (with a bigger queue depth) with an average throughput of 200 MB/s..

So how do we do this? I will show you. In the next few screens you will see me installing Windows on a 640GB hard drive and partitioning 50GB for the OS.

First select “Custom Install”

Next locate your large hard drive that you want to partition. Click on it to select it and click “Drive Options (advanced)”. (This was an old drive that I re-used and I deleted the information on it before proceeding. You can see the differences in the name of the drive and also the free space in the next 2 pictures which reflects this change)

Now the options at the bottom will change. Select “new” to make your new partition.

Now you can tell Windows how much of your 640GB drive you want to make into this new partition. I recommend 40-50GB which is roughly 40,000-50,000MB. So in the picture below you enter 50,000 for the size to make a roughly 50GB partition on your large 640GB drive. Click “apply”.

Windows will ask for permission to make this partition. Tell it ok.

Now you will see your original hard drive and the new ~50GB partition. There will also be a tiny 100MB system reserved section (ignore it and leave it alone. Do NOT delete it). Select your new ~50GB partition and click “Next”.

Since you have now told Windows where you want it to install it will begin the installation process.

Eventually Windows will ask you to name your HTPC. You can name it whatever you like.

You also can enter a password which is required every time you start your HTPC. I avoid this an leave it completely blank.

Next enter your product key. It should be located on your DVD case.

I usually choose option 2 “Install important updates only”

Set your date and time.

Windows will now take a few seconds to prepare your desktop

This is how Windows looks on my test PC monitor. Now its time to install some of the drivers that make everything work inside Windows.

TIP: If you are using a SSD install all Windows and programs on the SSD. Install all of your media and other data (movies, music, tv shows, documents, pictures, etc) on the large storage drive or drive other than the SSD.


Install Windows from a USB (or create a Windows DVD)

This guide will show you how to install Windows from a USB drive (or how to burn a legitimate downloaded copy to DVD for installation). The great thing about this technique is not only is it faster (about 7 minutes for Windows Home 64 bit) but you can try out Windows for free for 30 days. You also can install Windows while you are waiting on your Windows disc to arrive and then use the license key to activate windows once you receive the actual disc (or you can purchase just the license from Microsoft and forgo the disc altogether) — if you go this route make sure to download and install the same exact version of windows that you have purchased. If the license key is not the same as the version it is linked to Windows will not activate and you will have to start over.

You obviously will also need a USB flash drive. I recommend at least 4GB. There is no need to pay for a USB 3.0 drive as the drivers for the USB 3.0 ports won’t be available until after we download and install the drivers for them.

Now you need to obviously download Windows legitimately from Microsoft’s Digital River website. Here I have linked all the versions that are available. Again, be sure to download the exact version and type (32 vs 64 bit) that matched the license key you purchased.

(Remember that x86 is 32 bit and x64 is 64 bit)

Now that you have the file downloaded let’s download the Windows DVD to USB tool here

Now let’s open the Windows DVD to USB tool. Locate your Win7 iso file that you downloaded (I have renamed mine Windows 7 Install) and then click next

Next select that you want to store it on a USB device (alternatively you can burn it to a DVD if you want)

Select the USB that you want to use (here I chose my 8GB flash that already had some stuff on it as an example for this guide. I suggest that you backup and then delete whatever is on your flash drive and start with an empty flash drive)

Next select “Begin Copying”. Your downloaded iso will now be transferred to a bootable USB flash drive. Alternatively if you are choosing to burn to disc you would have chosen your DVD burner and your bootable disc will now start burning

The end result looks something like this

Opening the flash drive above looks something like this

The next step is to enter bios of your new HTPC. In the area where you can select your boot order select USB to boot first. Now plug your flash drive into a USB 2.0 port on the rear of your HTPC and restart bios. Windows should now install in about 7 minutes!

Once Windows has installed you can use it for 30 days without having to activate it. When you get your disc or license go to Start and right click on “Computer” and select “Properties”. Here you should be able to enter your license key and activate Windows

Windows Driver Installation

The next thing that I usually do is install the wired LAN or Wireless driver off the disk that came with my motherboard (for LAN) or wireless adapter. This will allow my HTPC to get on the internet to download and install many of the other drivers.

Let me stop for a second and discuss the disc(s) that come with your motherboards. These are typically mass produced by the manufacturer and may be months old. There may be newer more stable drivers that are available on your motherboard’s website. So for this reason I recommend that you download and install all the drivers from your manufacturer. This is tedious and much more work than just popping in the disc that came with your motherboard but it is a better method and one I recommend.

For this HTPC build I used a wireless PCI-E card. So I put the wireless card’s disc in the HTPC and installed the drivers.

Now you can see my previously dead wireless card spring to life now that its drivers are installed.

Now get on your network through Windows 7. Once you are on the internet go to Start –> Control Panel and scroll all the way to the bottom to locate “Windows Update”. You will have to change the Control Panel settings to Small Icons to get this view.

Before we do anything else let’s download the dozens of Windows updates that are available. This is an annoying step but needs to be done to get the best install possible. You will be asked to restart multiple times. After each restart return to the updater and keep installing updates until you are finished and have no more available updates.

During the first run of updates you will need to tell Windows explorer that it can install. The install will pause and a box will open in the toolbar at the bottom of the screen prompting you for permission. Give it permission to install. I didn’t notice this the first time and it took me about 30 minutes to realize that Windows was waiting me to give it permission to proceed.

This is the approximate storage usage of my SSD drive up to this point. (Notice the 2TB drive is missing! We will talk about that in a minute).

After the Windows 7 updates are complete let’s go to Intel to download drivers for your CPU.

This link should take you to the Intel download screen. Just select your OS and download the most current set of drivers for your specific CPU.

After this has installed you will be asked to restart. Do so and then let’s start downloading your Motherboard’s drivers directly from the manufacturer’s website. I have linked them all here for you to make this easier for reference.

Since this board is an ASRock we are going to download all of the available drivers and utilities from the website. I suggest you do the same with whatever board and manufacturer you are using.

I usually install the Intel drivers first and then all the others in alphabetical order to make sure that they were all installed. It doesn’t hurt to make a list of everything that you have installed.

At the end of all of these installs this is how the storage on my SSD looks:

Adding a Second Hard Drive (or new hard drive if you are adding one)

After all of the drivers have installed let’s tell Windows that your 2TB hard drive needs to be included for use on your HTPC. If you disconnected this drive from the motherboard during installation (again, only needed if you are building your own HTPC) then shut down windows, unplug your HTPC from the electrical outlet and connect the SATA cable back to the motherboard. Then restart windows.

This is also the steps that you will need to make if you ever decide to add another hard drive to your HTPC internally to make it active and available for use in Windows.

Before I noted that the 2TB drive was missing from Windows. This will show you how to add it.

Next right click on “My Computer” and select “Manage”

Now click “Disk Management” on the left. You may be asked to initialize the disk. Select MBR and OK. Please note that if you have a hard drive larger than 2TB you will need to use the GPT partition style for your drive.

Now you can see a list of drives attached to your HTPC. Here “Disk 0” is our 64GB SSD with the 100MB system reserve and OS (C:) drive designation. Underneath in black with the stripes you can see the 2TB drive listed as “Disk 1”. Let’s right click on that drive and select “New Simple Volume”.

This will start the “New Simple Volume Wizard”. Click Next.

Make your drive space the maximum allowed.

Assign your drive a letter

Use these settings and name your drive whatever you like.

Windows will list your settings. Select “Finish”

Now under “Disk Management” we can see our newly added drive

Remember before how our drive wasn’t even listed? Take a look now. You just added your drive!

Installing an Anti-virus Program

If you want to use an anti-virus program then I highly recommend Microsoft Security Essentials. Its free with your copy of Windows 7.

Simply click this link and install. No guide is really needed!


Connecting Your HTPC to your HDTV Correctly

Before we download, install and configure all your HTPC software let’s take a few minutes to correctly hook up your HTPC. More than likely if you are adding a HTPC you are connecting it to your Home Theater AV Receiver. This is done with a simple single HDMI cable. Most people connect multiple HDMI devices to the many inputs on their HDMI capable receiver and then use a single HDMI cable as an output to their HDTV.

If your AV receiver does not have a HDMI input then you can run a fiber optic (Toslink/SPDIF) cable from the optical digital output to your AV receiver for the Audio and use a HDMI cable to run to the HDTV for the video.

To setup the sound in Windows 7 right click the speaker in the bottom right of your desktop and select “Playback Devices”. Here you should see your HDTV or AV receiver. Make sure to set this as “default” if it is not already done for you to tell Windows you want to use the HDMI that is connecting your HTPC to your AV Receiver as your default device.

For this example the HTPC is connected to a Denon AV Receiver.

Now if you select the “Supported Formats” tab you should see all formats that are enabled. In the previous steps I have shown you how to install everything you need and all HD codecs should be enabled assuming your AV receiver is capable of HD Audio. If it is not capable of these formats then they likely will not show as being supported. If you have an HD Audio capable receiver and these formats are not showing up yet don’t worry just yet. Let’s complete the “Engine” portion of this tutorial (below) and then try checking these settings again.

If your AV receiver does not have a HDMI input and you want to connect it via the optical digital output then you will see a screen similar to the following (this step is not needed if your AV receiver has HDMI):

Here we want to tell windows to use the optical digital output for your sound. This is also known as the SPDIF connection. So if you aren’t connecting your HTPC to your AV receiver via HDMI and are instead using the optical digital output (SPDIF) go ahead and set the SPDIF as your default device. Please note that HD audio can only be sent over HDMI to AV receivers capable of HD Audio playback but you can still enjoy digital DTS and Dolby Digital over a fiber optic connection.

Now that you have your HTPC connected to your AV receiver let’s tell Windows what kind of setup you have.

Click on the audio output device that you just connected (either HDMI or SPDIF) and select “Configure Speakers”.

Next tell Windows to set your speakers as “stereo”. Don’t worry — when you play movies this will be bypassed and everything will be sent in surround sound. That’s it! Now it time to help out your HDTV.

Next, let’s help your HDTV know what’s connected to it.

I first recommend that you find out your TVs “native resolution” and try that setting as your HTPC’s resolution. For this you may have to consult your manual or Google your HDTV model’s specific native resolution capabilities. For instance my 1080p HDTV has a native resolution of 1920 pixels wide by 1080 pixels high. However my 32” 720 HDTV has a native resolution of 1360 pixels wide by 768 pixels high. To get the best possible picture quality takes a little bit of effort on your part but is well worth it.

Once your HTPC’s resolution is set there are a few things that your HTPC likes to have done. First, it likes to be in the HDMI1 input on most TVs. Second, it almost always requires that your TV is set to 1:1 pixel mapping. This means that your HDTV is not overscanning or “filling” the picture in any way (Manufacturers call this different things: “Just Scan”, “Full Screen”, etc. You may have to consult your manual or Google your particular brand for more information on what it is called for your particular HDTV). Third, sometimes certain HDTVs like to have their HDMI1 input labeled as “PC” to tell the HDTV that a PC is connected.

With all that being said this is how I would try to connect your HTPC for the first time:

1. Set your TV to its 1:1 pixel mapping setting

2. Connect your HTPC to HDMI1 of your HDTV

3. Test the screen. If it is not perfect then try to label the HDMI1 to “PC”

If your screen now looks perfect then move on to the next step. If not then there is additional tweaking to be performed.

Intel has included a very nice option on their CPU graphics chips called “Customize Aspect Ratio”

    1. Right click on your Desktop (the main screen on your HTPC)
    2. Select “Graphics Properties”
    3. Select “Advanced Mode”
    4. Under “Display” à “General Settings” change the “Scaling” to “Customize Aspect Ratio”. This will allows us to now tweak the horizontal and vertical aspects of your HDTV screen.
    5. Move the sliders from 100 to 90. Hit “Apply” and see how this looks on your HDTV. If it still is not quite perfect then continue to move the sliders down until the screen is to your liking. Some HDTV and HDTV manufacturers unfortunately do not include 1:1 pixel mapping and to get around this we much choose a scaling option that corrects their overscan.

Here are a few screenshots to help you (this example is from a 720p HDTV with a native resolution of 1280 pixels wide by 720 pixels tall):

Please note that on some older projection HDTVs (like my Samsung 61” DLP) you may never get a “perfect” fit on your screen. This is because unlike the new LED/LCD/Plasma HDTVs the older projection type TVs have overscan built-in on all four sides of the TV intentionally to fill the screen. So on these TVs if you picture is slightly cropped this is normal and there is very little you can do.

Optional Tip: If you are connecting your HTPC directly to your HDTV (without an AV Receiver) and are experiencing low sound volume then give the following settings a try:

Control Panel –> Sound (or just right click the speaker in the bottom right of you taskbar and select “Playback Devices”) –> Properties. Check both settings in “Exclusive Mode” in the “Advanced” tab

On the “Enhancements” tab put a check mark next to “Virtual Surround” and “Loudness Equalization”. Under “Loudness Equalization” click on “Settings” and change the Release Time to “Long”

Creating and Restoring a System Image

In the next three guides I will show you the essential components to creating and restoring a system image of your hard drive or SSD. This comes in handy once you have your HTPC setup exactly the way you want it and you want to make an EXACT COPY (or “snapshot”) of your HTPC to restore at a later date in case of failure or error.

You will need 3 parts:

  • Creating a System Repair Disc
  • Creating a System Image
  • Restoring from a System Image


Creating a System Repair Disc

In case of system error or malfunction you will need to have a system repair disc on hand to be able to install your system image. So before we do anything else let’s create one.

First let’s click start and then type “system repair disc”

Put a blank disc into your DVD/Bluray burner and click next. A blank CD is fine and has plenty of room but you can use a DVD as well.

That’s it for now. We will come back and use the recovery disk later.


Creating a System Image

First go to Start and then Control Panel and select “Backup and Restore”

Next select “Create a System Image”

You have a few options as to where to save the image. Here I will use an old external hard drive that I had lying around. You also can save it on your network or on to physical DVDs.

Click both System and Factory Image (this is my desktop so the files here are very large. The HTPC will be smaller)

Start the backup

Windows is saving your image

Image completed


Restoring From a System Image

Let’s assume something catastrophic has happened and your OS is toast. Or perhaps you were experimenting with some new settings or piece of software and the entire thing is now completely messed up. We need to restore to the image that we made which should be an exact copy of your HTPC on the day that you made the image.

Remember the system repair disc that we made? Let’s put it in the drive and start the HTPC. Press any key to boot from the disc. Boot Windows Setup.

Choose your keyboard type

Windows will now search for Windows installations on your drive

After this boots we see your OS and the system recovery options. Since we want to boot from an image that we made choose the bottom option of “Restore you computer using a system image”

Now let’s select your image that you made from your drive that should be attached. Choose the selection “Select a system image” if you want to locate it manually. The information about this image will autopopulate in the “Location”, “Date and Time” and “Computer” areas of this screen once it is selected.

If you have only 1 partition (like with a SSD) then just select next. If you have more than 1 partition (like a 2TB drive with a 50 GB partition for the OS) then you will have to exclude the partitions that you don’t want to include.

The next screen will confirm the image that you are installing

You are going to delete your current OS and replace it with the image. Select Yes

Your image is now installing. Congrats! You just saved the day by installing an image and your HTPC is back to new!


Power Settings for the HTPC

Setting your HTPC’s power settings correctly can help with a smoother HTPC experience. These are some of the settings that I have been using on my HTPC.

First go into Control Panel and click on “Change plan settings”

Now click on “Change advanced power settings”. You can choose whatever you like for “Turn off the display”. I choose 30 minutes. There is a setting I will show you later that will keep your HTPC from turning off during playback of a movie.

I don’t like having to enter a password when the HTPC wakes up. So I set this to “No”

I choose to “Never” turn off the hard disk(s)

For sleep I choose “Never” for hibernation and “Allow” wake timers

For USB settings I “Allow” the selective suspend setting

These are the Processor power management settings I use

For the Multimedia settings I choose these settings which will prevent your HTPC from sleeping during playback. This will override any “Turn off the display” settings during media playback

The other settings I leave at default. Feel free to alter these settings to reflect how you use your HTPC if necessary.

©Copyright 2011 by assassin @ assassinHTPCblog. All rights reserved. This guide and its contents are copyrighted by assassin @ assassinHTPCblog.

This may be used for personal use by the purchaser only; users are forbidden to reproduce, republish, redistribute or resell and material from this guide without the permission of assassin @ assassinHTPCblog.

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